On Saturday morning at 5:58 a.m., Boy Scout Troop 63 rolled out and headed north. We spent the weekend enjoying Lake Superior’s sites: Russ Kendall’s Smoke House -- a north shore tradition, two nights at Tettegouche State Park, and The Scandinavian Riviera that greeted us at every turn with breath-taking views and rock cliff faces. Rocks were skipped, cliffs were climbed and lines were dropped. My soul was at peace. We had a campfire, which burned late into the starry evening as old friends reminisced.
We broke camp Monday, loaded the trailer and headed to Ely by 6:30 a.m., hoping to beat a large storm that was blowing in. As we crossed over the Kawishiwi River, I did a fist pump in the air. I had finally arrived back to the Boundary Waters! I waved, and gave a nod as we drove past Dorthy Molter’s cabin, which stands as a guardian and greeter for all who enter the city on their way to the Boundary Waters. Around the corner from Dorothy’s relocated cabin is the International Wolf Center. The Troop spent the morning learning about and observing wolves -- a howling good time was had by all. We then left for Canadian Border Outfitters (CBO), off Fernberg Road on beautiful Moose Lake. We checked in, had our picnic lunch and did orientation before deciding what gear to pack in and what to leave behind.
Throughout our trip in the Boundary Waters, our outfitters at CBO put quotes from Sigurd F. Olson in our breakfasts, lunches, dinners and snacks to inspire us and make us think, which I've included throughout this story.
So we start the tale with this quote:
“Life is good to those who know how to live. I do not ever hope to accumulate great funds of worldly wealth, but I shall accumulate something far more valuable, a store of wonderful memories. When I reach the twilight of life I shall look back and say I'm glad I lived as I did, life has been good to me.” -- Sigurd Olson
Tuesday morning the Troop divided into two groups, which is where our story really starts. Two different rites of passage, two different sets of impressions and stories. I will tell the story of Group A, otherwise known as, "Poseidon’s Resistance." Assistant Scoutmasters John and Shawntell will tell the story of Group B, or the "Savage Squad."
Below are exerpts from the two group's trips.
Poseidon’s Resistance
Tuesday, Day 1
It would be the last time we would see the other group for three to four days. We devoured our breakfast and nervously awaited the arrival of the van to come and pick us up. Our group departed from CBO to Entry Point 27 on Snowbank Lake. It was already windy. After several attempts at loading the canoe and a close call almost tipping it only 100 feet from the dock, we boogied across Snowbank Lake and onto our first portage. It was our longest hike between lakes -- a little over a half a mile. Brad pushed us to carry everything in one trip. Against my better judgment, I agreed. The once light canoe was digging into our shoulders and the weight from the pack on our backs were making our feet scream and lungs burn, but the view of a blue sky and Disappointment Lake on the other side made our efforts worthwhile. This set precedent that we could portage everything in one trip, greatly speeding up our traveling time.
We portaged into Ima Lake and took the first campsite we came across, which was safely tucked away in a bay. We ate like kings that night with a steak dinner, and had a perfect view of the setting sun on Ima Lake. I heard the faint cry of wolves that night. That evening as the stars came out, through the wind I could hear the sniffing of a large animal 40 yards off in the thick brush. I sat straight up in my hammock. I slowly grabbed my bear horn to sound, but I had to wait until I could verify what it was before I attempted to scare it. Luckily, it slipped off into the night after a couple deep loud sniffs. I drifted off into a sleep under the windy night sky. Deb confirmed in the morning that she had heard the sniffing as well.
“The way of a canoe is the way of the wilderness, and of a freedom almost forgotten.” -- Sigurd Olson
Wednesday, Day 2
At 3 a.m. the wind woke me by just about blowing me out of my hammock. The winds were not letting up, in fact they even got worse. On the plus side, it kept the mosquitos down. We ate bacon, eggs and cheese tortillas for breakfast before we paddled into the wind. We jumped across a couple more portages until we reached Cattyman / Gibson Falls. It lived up to my memory from my childhood. It was beautiful, loud and serene. We portaged from Gibson Lake into Ashigan Lake. The winds of hell were howling louder than ever, and whitecaps ripped across the lake. We all just stood in amazement. We decided to paddle into the whitecaps to the other campsite on the lake. We reached the campsite around the island and next to the portage leading to Ensign Lake. I recommended that we just stay. Ensign Lake was only going to be worse. We watched a few groups struggle that afternoon on Ashigan Lake. We watched canoes get blown into shore and crash into islands. It was wicked. I was thankful to be in the shelter of the pine trees protected from the wind. Our campsite was a four-star palace on the rocks. The boys swam in the windy lake, and Justin found a rock bath tub. We enjoyed the windy afternoon on our layover day, and some of us even took naps. Rain fell on us late afternoon -- a warning sign of things to come.
“Wilderness to the people of America is a spiritual necessity, an antidote to the high pressure of modern life, a means of regaining serenity and equilibrium.” -- Sigurd Olson
Savage Squad
Tuesday, Day 1
On a sunny July 11 morning, Group B, with four canoes and nine members, embarked on our Boundary Waters adventure. Launching into Snowbank Lake, we turned north and met a strong headwind. We were tucked behind an island and then entered a cove. We warmed up with our first portage of 90 rods into Parent Lake. On Parent Lake, we again faced open water, a strong headwind and whitecaps. Halfway across Parent Lake the third canoe manned by Johnny Mac and Cole decided to check the water temperature and buoyancy of the life jackets and capsized. Packs, paddles and both paddlers all went into deep water. The bull horn brought to scare bears was quickly sounded by the second canoe. The three remaining canoes rendezvoused to get the equipment and paddlers back to shore. Packs, paddlers and equipment were rescued and taken to the nearby campsite on the northeast edge of the lake. The only casualty was a cell phone that took on water. Group consensus was the campsite was beautiful with its 15-foot shallow beach, plenty of trees for hammocks and good tent pads. An overall good place to put in for the night. The Scouts quickly strung a line to dry out gear and then spent the afternoon exploring the water’s edge finding toads and crayfish. The wind dried out our gear and kept the mosquitoes at bay, but also continued throughout the night affording little opportunity for rest.
“Simplicity in all things is the secret of the wilderness and one of its most valuable lessons. It is what we leave behind that is important. I think the matter of simplicity goes further than just food, equipment, and unnecessary gadgets; it goes into the matter of thoughts and objectives as well. When in the wilds, we must not carry our problems with us or the joy is lost.” -- Sigurd Olson
Friday, Day 4
The morning's beautiful sunrise made us realize that the best was yet to come. We broke camp and began a beautiful paddle for our final day. As I looked across the water at the four boats of our group and the people in them, I couldn't help but realize that we were not the same people that started the journey. We had been lost, frustrated, wet, tired, capsized, blistered, leeched and challenged. But something truly awesome had been given to us that we could only discover in this way. We are meant for more. We are stronger, and more durable than we believe. In each of us there is greatness just waiting to be challenged and discovered. Thank you Boundary Waters for helping us reach the awesomeness that is in each of us. We saw three bald eagles soaring the final stretch while paddling back to the dock at CBO. I watched them soar effortlessly, and as I did I felt for a moment that I was soaring with them. The muscles seemed not to ache for a moment, and the beauty that is this place was felt by everyone. We made it, and there will be stories and memories in each of us that will last a lifetime.
“There is magic in the feel of a paddle and the movement of a canoe, a magic compounded of distance, adventure, solitude, and peace. The way of a canoe is the way of the wilderness and of a freedom almost forgotten. It is an antidote to insecurity, the open door to waterways of ages past and a way of life with profound and abiding satisfactions. When a man is part of his canoe, he is part of all that canoes have ever known.” -- Sigurd Olson
Both groups had made it in safe! Stories were told over a final group steak dinner and into the setting sun. Late into the night our stories brought joy and laughter. Life was simple and good for one week. Thousands of emails and texts went unread. Phone calls were missed, and the world kept turning.
Note from the author: Our trip into the Boudary Waters would not have been possible without the support from parents -- thank you from the bottom of my heart on behalf of Troop 63.
Josh Redhead is the Scoutmaster for Troop 63 and works full time as an estimator / project manager for Elder Corporation in central Iowa. In addition to his son, Connor Redhead, who is currently in Troop 63, Josh has two daughters, Emory and Kaylie, who he hopes to take on Boundary Waters trips someday. He is in the third generation of his family to make trips into the Boundary Waters, while his son Connor makes the fouth. Josh made his first trip in the mid 80s and has been coming back ever since. Josh supports the Campaign to Save the Boundary Waters because he says there truly is no other place like this on Earth.
