The healing power of the Boundary Waters: a Dark Sky Sanctuary

(Photo from Spirits Dancing: The Night Sky, Indigenous Knowledge, and Living Connections to the Cosmos by Travis Novitsky)

Imagine standing on the edge of a quiet lake in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCA) in northeastern Minnesota. The sun has set, and the world around you is slowly enveloped in a deep, comforting darkness. As you look up, a breathtaking display of stars begins to reveal itself—countless points of light, brilliant and unimpeded, stretching across the vast canvas of the night sky. This experience, where the silence of the wilderness meets the awe of the cosmos, makes the BWCA a true sanctuary for the soul.

The Boundary Waters is over one million acres of federally protected land along the Minnesota border with Canada. One of the few remaining “naturally quiet” places on the planet where you can experience what it feels like to be an explorer. Over 150,000 guests from all over the world traverse the BWCA’s 1,100 lakes and hundreds of miles of rivers and streams each year. Much has been done to keep this region free from pollution, pollution from mining, but also light pollution.

The World Atlas of Artificial Sky Luminance used satellite data to determine that over 80% of the world and more than 99% of the US and European populations live under light-polluted skies. According to DarkSky International, “For billions of years, all life has relied on Earth’s predictable rhythm of day and night. It’s encoded in the DNA of all plants and animals. Humans have radically disrupted this cycle by lighting up the night.”   

In 2020, the BWCA was designated as a Dark Sky Sanctuary by DarkSky International. This is a certification given to public or private land that has an exceptional or distinguished quality of starry nights and a nocturnal environment that is protected for its scientific, natural, or educational value, cultural heritage, and/or public enjoyment. To qualify as a Dark Sky Sanctuary, the area must meet strict criteria for sky quality, commit to protecting the night sky through responsible lighting practices, and provide public outreach.

For those who have found themselves under these star-filled skies, the designation is more than just a title; it’s an affirmation of what this place means to so many—a place of healing, reflection, and connection to the universe.

Consider the story of Kristin Wornson and Rich Pagen, who in 2020, received life-altering news: a breast cancer diagnosis. Like anyone who has faced such a moment, they were overwhelmed with fear and uncertainty. Instead of allowing the diagnosis to consume them, they made a different choice. They decided to retreat to the Boundary Waters, a place where they had often found peace and perspective in the past.

For them, the BWCA was more than just a wilderness area; it was a refuge. They spent their days paddling across clear, calm lakes and their nights beneath a sky filled with bright stars. Without the hum of city lights or the constant noise of digital devices, the natural world spoke to them in a language nearly forgotten—a language of stillness, presence, and awe. 

Rich shared, “When Kristin was diagnosed with breast cancer in May 2020, in the early days of the pandemic, and around the time of George Floyd’s death, it was a very surreal stretch.  Once we had an initial plan for Kristin’s healing, it became clear that THE best place to be (since the city was shut) was the wilderness.  Physical isolation, which was the modus operandi of the period, would be easy there.” 

“Plus, it would be a way to put our minds on the day-to-day, the simple life, and the changing seasons; and on how the non-human residents of our planet were continuing with their lives unaffected by what we (Kristin and me, as well as the collective ‘we’) had on our plates. There are a few lines of a poem by Wendell Berry that I find so perfect: ‘I come into the peace of wild things, who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief. For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.’”

“Being on an extended trip in the Boundary Waters gets one focused on the routines of the day, which can include doing nothing but being present in a beautiful place. Also, there is traveling, picking a camp, setting up, preparing food, and going to bed when the sun does after star-gazing. Very simple. This was important for Kristin and me, as we had been living and breathing cancer and cancer treatment for three months straight.”

Each night, as they gazed up at the endless sky, the couple felt a profound sense of peace wash over them. The vastness of the universe, so beautifully displayed in this Dark Sky Sanctuary, reminded them that while life can be fragile and unpredictable, it is also filled with infinite possibilities.

In that darkness, they found something they hadn’t expected: healing. Not a cure, but a profound emotional and spiritual healing that helped them face their journey ahead with renewed strength and courage.

There's a reason why places like the BWCA have such a powerful effect on us. It goes beyond the quiet or the fresh air—it’s about how our nervous systems respond to natural environments versus the artificial stimulation of modern life. When you’re in nature, surrounded by trees, water, and, most importantly, the natural night sky, you start to shift out of the Sympathetic (fight or flight) Nervous System into the Parasympathetic (rest and digest).

According to the Cleveland Clinic, “Your sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems have opposite roles. While your sympathetic nervous system carries signals that put your body’s systems on alert, your parasympathetic carries signals that relax those systems.” Our modern lives, often dominated by artificial light, keep us in a state of prolonged Sympathetic Nervous System engagement.

This sets the stage for an overactive Sympathetic System which contributes to heart disease, digestive issues, disturbed sleep, anxiety and depression, fatigue, and a general state of unease. Nature, on the other hand, promotes a different kind of brain activity. When you look at a starry sky, listen to the rustling of the leaves, or feel the cool water on your skin, your body is more likely to shift into the Parasympathetic System. 

This provides a more sustained, peaceful sense of contentment and creates an environment for physical regeneration. Kristin and Rich, in the BWCA, under those dark skies, were not only spiritually but also physiologically healing. Their brains were literally changing, moving away from the stress-driven cycles and toward a more balanced state.

In a world filled with constant noise, light pollution, and digital distraction, the importance of places like the BWCA cannot be overstated. Dark Sky Sanctuaries serve as essential reminders that there is still a world out there where nature reigns, where the stars shine with an intensity that takes your breath away, and where you can find yourself again amidst the quiet. The preservation of these sanctuaries is about more than just stargazing; it’s about safeguarding spaces where people can heal, reflect, and reconnect with something larger than themselves.

If you've ever felt the need to escape from the endless notifications and demands of everyday life, consider what it might be like to spend a night in the BWCA. Imagine the stars reflecting off a still lake, the whisper of the wind in the pines, aurora borealis dancing above you, and the realization that you’re standing in one of the few places left where natural darkness is preserved.

Kristin and Rich ventured into the BWCA after her cancer diagnosis and found more than just a wilderness; they found a path to healing and clarity. Their story is not unique—countless others have come to this sanctuary seeking something they couldn’t find anywhere else. And perhaps, in this space of deep darkness and profound beauty, you might find something for yourself too.

So, consider this your invitation. Pack a canoe, grab a tent, and let the Boundary Waters Canoe Area welcome you. Under those star-filled skies, you may just discover a new perspective, a sense of peace, and a reminder of what truly matters.

Kristin Wornson first ventured onto expedition ships in 2005, to run a hands-on science program for young explorers. She’s made many trips since then, to various parts of the world, and continues to be astonished by the staggering beauty that presents itself in every corner of this extraordinary planet. As a naturalist and guide, she recognizes the importance of preserving the Boundary Waters' wildness, quiet, and dark sky. 

Rich Pagen has embarked on a career in nature education and conservation biology that has ranged from teaching science and environmental awareness to traveling the coast and river deltas of Alaska’s North Slope by Zodiac to reach remote wetlands where he monitored loon nests. He’s traveled the globe, taking people into immersive nature experiences and still, his favorite place in the world is the BWCA. You can learn more about joining Rich and Kristin on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure here- https://www.inside-expeditions.com.